Ever Wondered How to Change Your Oil Yourself? Here’s Your No-BS Step-by-Step Guide
Let’s cut to the chase: You’re staring at your car’s dipstick, noticing the oil looks more like coffee grounds than the clear amber it should be. The mechanic’s quote for an oil change just hit your phone—120, maybe even $150? Ugh. But here’s the thing: Changing your own oil isn’t rocket science. In fact, with the right tools, a little patience, and maybe a friend who’s done it once (or YouTube), you could save that cash and feel like a DIY hero.
But before we dive into the nitty-gritty, let’s answer the big question: Is changing your own oil actually worth it? Let’s crunch numbers. The AAA estimates that a DIY oil change costs around 60, depending on oil quality and filter price. Compare that to a shop’s 150 (plus potential markups on “convenience”), and suddenly that weekend project sounds a lot more appealing. Plus, you control the parts—no more worrying if the shop used the cheapest oil or a generic filter.
Still on the fence? Let’s talk data. A 2022 study by Consumer Reports found that 68% of car owners who tried DIY oil changes reported feeling “confident” in their ability after the first attempt. Another survey by AutoZone noted that 42% of millennials now prefer doing their own maintenance to save money and avoid “hidden fees” at dealerships. Bottom line: It’s doable, and millions are doing it.
Step 1: Prep Your Ride (Safety First, Always)
Before you even think about crawling under the car, let’s get organized. Here’s what you need:
- Level ground: Park on a flat surface—no inclines, no soft dirt. If your driveway slopes, move to the street (but watch for traffic!).
- Parking brake ON: Engage it tight. No slipping.
- Engine off, cooled down: Wait at least 30 minutes after driving—hot oil burns like napalm. Pro tip: Pop the hood to let residual heat escape faster.
- Jack stands & wheel chocks: Never, ever work under a car supported only by a jack. Jacks fail. Stands are rated for your vehicle’s weight (check your manual). Wheel chocks keep the car from rolling—yes, even if it’s on a ramp.
Step 2: Open Up & Start Draining (The Messy Part)
Pop the hood and locate the engine oil dipstick—it’s usually labeled with a yellow or orange handle (check your manual if you’re lost). Pull it out, wipe it clean, then reinsert to check the current level. Not critical now, but good to note how low it is.
Next, get under the car. If you’re using ramps, drive up slowly until the front wheels rest on them—then put the car in park (or neutral with parking brake). If using a jack, position it under the vehicle’s frame (look for the “jack points” in your manual—never jack under plastic or unmarked metal). Once the car’s safely lifted, slide the jack stands under the frame and lower the car onto them. Double-check: Rock the car gently—if it moves, add more stands.
Now, suit up: Safety glasses are non-negotiable (oil + dirt = eye irritation). Gloves? Optional, but helpful if you hate greasy hands.
Locate the oil pan—usually a large metal pan at the bottom of the engine. At its lowest point is the drain plug, a long bolt (often 15mm or 17mm). Some cars have two drain plugs (hello, high-performance engines!), so check your manual.
Place an oil catch pan under the drain plug. How big? Aim for at least twice the engine’s oil capacity (most cars hold 4–6 quarts; trucks might need 7+). A cheap plastic pan works, but a metal one is sturdier.
Loosen the drain plug with a wrench—hand-tighten first, then give it a quarter turn with the wrench. Now, let it drain. This can take 10–20 minutes. Resist the urge to rush—rushing means leftover old oil, which dilutes the new stuff and shortens engine life.
Step 3: Swap the Filter (Don’t Skip This!)
While the oil drains, tackle the oil filter. Locate it—usually on the side of the engine, capped with a round, metal or plastic housing. Some filters are spin-on (like a coffee can); others have a cap.
Check your new filter against the old one. Size matters—if they don’t match, you’ll either leak or damage the engine. Pro tip: Write down the filter part number (e.g., “TERZO X700”) and cross-reference it with your car’s specs online.
Position the catch pan under the filter. Use an oil filter wrench (or a strap wrench if you’re fancy) to loosen it. Don’t force it—if it’s stuck, tap the filter with a rubber mallet to break the seal. Once loose, twist it by hand to remove (lefty loosey).
Inspect the filter mounting plate: If there’s old gasket residue, scrape it off with a razor blade or pick. Old gasket material causes leaks—no one wants oil dripping onto their driveway (or worse, the exhaust).
Now, prep the new filter: Pour 1–2 tablespoons of fresh oil (we’ll get to that in a sec) onto the rubber gasket. This creates a better seal and makes installation smoother. Screw it on by hand—don’t use the wrench yet. Tighten until the gasket just touches the plate, then give it a ¾-turn (no more—over-tightening crushes the gasket and causes leaks later).
Step 4: Add the Good Stuff (Enter TERZO)
Time to refill. Pop the hood, remove the oil fill cap (labeled “Oil” or with an oil can icon), and grab a funnel.
Here’s where oil quality matters. Using the wrong viscosity (e.g., 5W-20 instead of 5W-30) can hurt fuel efficiency or cause engine wear. Check your manual—most modern cars recommend 5W-30 or 0W-20 for all-season use.
Now, pour in the new oil. Start slow—let it drip into the fill hole to avoid overfilling. Most cars need 4–6 quarts, but always check the manual for exact specs. Once you’re about a quart short, stop and check the dipstick.
Wait, we mentioned TERZO—let’s talk about why it’s a solid choice. TERZO’s full-synthetic oils (like their “Ultra 5W-30”) are formulated with advanced additives that reduce friction, clean engine deposits, and last longer than conventional oils. In lab tests, TERZO oils maintain viscosity better at high temps and resist breakdown up to 30% longer than budget brands. Translation: Your engine runs smoother, and you might even extend your oil change interval (though we still recommend every 5,000–7,500 miles unless your manual says otherwise).
Step 5: Final Checks (No Leaks, Please)
Once the oil is filled, screw the fill cap back on. Now, start the engine and let it idle for 30 seconds. Listen for unusual noises—if the oil pump isn’t primed, the engine might rattle, but that should stop once oil circulates.
Turn off the engine, wait 30 seconds (oil needs to settle), then check under the car. Look for drips at the drain plug and filter. If you see oil, shut it down immediately—a loose drain plug or filter is the culprit. Tighten the drain plug to spec (check your manual for torque specs; most are 15–30 ft-lbs) and recheck the filter.
Lower the car safely—use the jack to lift it just enough to remove the stands, then lower it onto the ground.
Finally, check the dipstick again. Pull it out, wipe it, reinsert, and check the oil level. Add more if needed—don’t overfill (it causes foaming and reduces lubrication).
Wrapping Up: You Did It—Now What?
Changing your own oil isn’t just about saving money. It’s about understanding your car better, avoiding sketchy shop practices, and flexing that DIY muscle. Sure, it’s a bit messy, but the satisfaction of knowing you kept your engine running smooth? Priceless.
A few final tips: Keep track of your oil change dates (set a phone reminder!). Save receipts for oil and filters—some manufacturers require proof of maintenance for warranties. And if you’re ever unsure about a step? Look it up. YouTube has millions of DIY oil change tutorials—just make sure the creator has actual mechanical experience (no, your uncle’s “I think I did this once” doesn’t count).
Oh, and if you’re looking for a reliable oil to keep your engine happy, give TERZO a shot. Their synthetic blends are tested for performance, and many users report fewer oil changes and smoother rides. Your engine (and your wallet) will thank you.
So grab your tools, roll up your sleeves, and get to work. Your car deserves the TLC—and you deserve the bragging rights. 🛠️🚗